I'll tell you up front I know absolutely nothing about surfing. Zero. From the time I was 11 until I was 23 I was scared of sharks, despite never coming anywhere close to said beast. However, I have immense respect for the ocean, which is what I think it takes to be a phenomenal surfer. It's more than just being "radical" as Swayze would say in Point Break. It's about understanding and respecting the power of the surf. Gaining total clarity on how the swells and currents work, to both your advantage, and your peril.
So take in 'The Mechanics of Waimea," an unbelievable examination of the famed Waimea Bay surfspot, which hosts Quiksilver's Eddia Aikau Memorial surf competition yearly (that is assuming the peaks and swells are just right). The photo gallery breaks down every piece of the colossal wave, and gives you an outstanding inside look at the creation of the perfect wave. Beautiful photos and stunning analysis, tough to beat.
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/the-mechanics-of-waimea-bay_51419/
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